June 13 – Aileu and the EU Election Observers

June 13 – Aileu and the EU Election Observers

            Yesterday we had as busy of a day as I expected.  It started by going to World Vision, which had a very impressive organization.  The little building it was housed in was full of computers, a copier, and more than a dozen people bustling around working, all Timorese.  We were able to talk to a man who had worked in water and sanitation for more than 12 years, and he told us a lot about the projects that they are doing.  Bear Cub and I were talking; for both of us, World Vision seemed like almost a great organization to work for.  It may not have a lot of offices in the countries it works in, but each one is well funded, and the literature that they produce was some of the best that we read at DU. The only problem is that in order to join World Vision, you have to take the Apostle’s Creed, not something that I could really do as an atheist, or even someone who is agnostic or not very religious could do.

              The next place we went was the Red Cross office in the area.  It was amazing how bare bones it was compared to World Vision.  Red Cross, as an organization in general, is usually more bare bones than others.  They prefer to operate out of many areas, with just a few paid members and many volunteers.  Still, it was quite a shock after being in World Vision, with all of its technology and paid Timorese workers, to walk into Red Cross that looked like all it had was a table, chairs, and a white board.

              We had to spend the next hour or so looking for gas.  It was our first time filling up since we’ve been here, but Aileu was apparently dry.  We asked UNOPL, several people around town, tried the gas station and a couple of places that looked like lemonade stands only with gas, but all they had was diesel.  Finally we got word of another place further down the road that had some, and were able to get 50 ltrs for $71.50. 

             We happened to pass the SAS office on the way, and stopped by there after getting gas.  SAS is the local government water and sanitation management organization.  We walked in – the door was unlocked – but the whole building was empty.  We tried to look through some of their books and things, but didn’t get a lot of information.  I tried using their bathroom, but both the men’s and women’s were so disgusting that I decided to wait.  We thought it was pretty ironic that the government organization in charge of sanitation had such gross bathrooms.

              Afterwards we went to the Plan International office, where a very cute Timorese woman who was fluent in English and the office coordinator gave us some of the best information we have had.  She not only was able to tell us about Plan’s programs, but the SAS programs in the area as well.  We have these maps that Grant and I created in our GIS class that show the only area in Aileu district with water piped to houses was just northwest of the city, where she lives.  However, we found that the pipes are dry half of the year, and when something breaks, SAS takes at least three weeks to get out there and fix it.  Her family has bought huge water tanks from Dili to collect rainwater, which they survive off of the rest of the year.

              It’s amazing how many people we have met, Timorese and Mallai, that have been incredibly friendly and incredibly helpful.  After meeting with Emelita at the Plan office, we went to the Sisters of Maryknoll house, where we met Sister Susan.  She was so nice, though the information we had about her was wrong, she hadn’t worked in water here.  She’s originally from Chicago, but has spent more than 40 years in Southeast Asia, first in Hong Kong, then 16 years in Indonesia, and 20 years in Timor-Leste.  Every five years she gets to go home and visit her family, with more frequent trips for ‘renewal’ and a visit with other visits with Southeast Asian Maryknoll people in Thailand.  She was here through the Indonesian occupation, where everything they had was burned, then through UN governance, and now Timorese independence.  The whole time she has been helping the people with a clinic, agricultural programs, a workshop where disabled people can make things, and more.  Not only was her dedication incredible, but she has done it all with a bit smile on her face, joking with us and telling us her story.

              Afterwards we went back to the Blue House, where apparently two EU Election Observers, Alexis from France and Carola from Germany, are also now staying.  I couldn’t have asked for a better evening.  We went and ate dinner with them, and then came back and sat on the porch.  I spent most of the time talking to Alexis, who had amazing stories about all of the elections he has observed over the years.  Just to name a few, he observed in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Afghanistan, Iraq, Ukraine, Nigeria, Côte d’Ivoire, etc.  In Afghanistan he was in charge of the northern area that borders Pakistan, China, and Tajikistan (I think), where most of the time they had to bring election materials via helicopter.  At one point there, he had more than 6,000 people that he was in charge of.

              The things he has seen and the places he has been have been both terrible and incredible.  At one point, a bomb went off 10 meters from him, and 7 people were killed.  He has been to more than 80 countries, not counting all of the ones he stayed a night in on the way to other places.  Definitely work that I would consider doing in the future, but probably not for as long as him.  He is now 44, though looks no older than 35.  Carola was more rough around the edges, but also very nice.  I was there when they were interviewing people for a translator position.  She told one guy “you friend was not good, and neither are you, but you are a bit better.”  She then made him translate this paper from Tetum to English before telling him that he was very nice, but wouldn’t do.

              Alexis and Carola were both enamored with John.  They first tried to convince us to let them hire him immediately, and the rest of the time asking him if after he finished with us he would come work with them.  Everyday makes me realize how luck we are to have him.  Other than his immaculate work translating and finding us places to eat and sleep, I found out that the observers waited 1.5 hours for the food at a restaurant we went to for lunch as well.  We got there after them, waited no more than 25 minutes, and left before they even got their food, all because of John.

              This morning (the 14th), our car wouldn’t start.  We are now waiting for the rental company to send another, and are going to hike out to a place close by, about an hour’s walk, that is supposed to have a system we can look at.  Unfortunately, because of the delay we won’t be able to see all of the places in Aileu that we wanted to, but it will be nice to walk somewhere instead of drive